Elizabeth stands on the shoulders of giants: Alinea and Next for online ticketing; Schwa and EL Ideas for the communal dinner party vibe. But Iliana Regan’s creations would be shockingly original even without the glorious view up there.

Her three earthy menus—especially the 24-course “Diamond” ($145 on weeknights, $175 on weekends), a four-hour journey through forests, skies, farms, and oceans—overflow with sheer imagination and daring. You might get a prosciutto-wrapped smoked mussel placed on your hand or “noodles” of shrimp with shredded kale and toasted quinoa served in an Asian spoon by the charmingly subdued owner herself.

So many chefs slavishly hook onto trends, but Regan remains refreshingly oblivious to them. Get to Elizabeth before she realizes how good she is.