The shtick: All-you-can-eat seafood feasting.

The vibe: On a weekend afternoon, it seems like everyone and their mom descends upon Smack Shack for the all-you-can-eat brunch for $35. The bilevel space is busy from 10 a.m. onwards, with lots of large parties (more than a few birthday celebrations were happening when we stopped in.) Expect lines at the more popular stations and a general sense of revelry in the air. 7 out of 10

The drinks: You’re already going hard with the food. Make a day of it and do the bottomless mimosa ($15), which lets you pick from a plethora of juices for a DIY drink experience. (We’d advise against the Bloody Mary bar, which suffers from some bland tomato mixers.) 6 out of 10

The food: As is to be expected with an all-you-can-eat extravaganza, nothing really raises above the level of “just fine.” Value-wise, your best bet is fitting as much seafood onto your plate as possible, particularly oysters and snow crab legs (though know you’re probably not getting the highest end oceanic products out there). There is a lot of other stuff available—an omelet bar, a waffle iron, a sundae station, and some meaty lunch selections from a carving station. Our favorite non-fish option was the carrot-cake muffins, with a crunchy caramelized top and a dense interior. We also went straight for a platter of Glazed and Infused doughnuts. Oysters and doughnuts, a match made in heaven. 6 out of 10

The service: There’s minimal server interaction given the buffet set-up, but plates get cleared quickly and mimosas are refilled on the regular. 8 out of 10

Overall: Sometimes you just need to gorge. This is a fine place to do it. 7 out of 10