The shtick: A fan-favorite pizzeria gets into the daytime game.

The vibe: You know how Piece is during peak dinner hours––hour-plus waits, sporting events on TV screens in every direction you look, barely enough room for your server bearing a cookie sheet of pizza to make it to your table. Its newly launched brunch hasn’t quite reached the deafening buzz of its evening business, to its benefit. You can take full advantage of the sunlight coming in from the glass roof, you can get back to the bathroom without tripping over the groups of twenty- and thirty-something couples populating the room, and, most importantly, you can get seated right away. 9 out of 10

The drinks: As always, Piece’s house beers delight, but there are a few standard brunch beverages available if you’re trying to stay on theme, including an above-average, Hot Doug’s Atomic Sausage chunk–adorned Bloody Mary that packed a peppery kick. (Be sure to caffeinate ahead of time, though, because pizza and coffee? Not happening.) 8 out of 10

The food: Piece has really been leaning into the whole themed pizza thing, with annual collaborations with area chefs such as Stephanie Izard and the crew at Honey Butter Fried Chicken. Brunch pies are the latest entrant, with three suggested white pie combos available for dine-in ordering only on Saturdays and Sundays. We opted to sample two of them: a sausage pie with peppers, onions, and sriracha cream cheese from sister spot Brobagel; and a bacon, arugula, and goat cheese combo. (There's also a vegetarian option available.) Each includes eggs, and you can choose how they’re prepped—we went scrambled on the sausage one and sunny-side up for bacon.

Both pies were absolutely delicious. Our party was split on whether the oozing yolk and thick-sliced bacon combo (along with arugula, it’s basically a salad, right?) or the extra-rich, all-slicked-up-with-spicy-cream-cheese sausage medley made for a better brunch. We could agree, however, that these were far more filling than your standard pie. Order accordingly and note that scrambled eggs reheat better than the yolk-up options. 9 out of 10

The service: A little spacey but pleasantly cheery, like if Ilana from Broad City figured out how to mostly hold it together throughout a restaurant service shift. 7.5 out of 10

Overall: Piece + brunch pizzas + immediate seating = slam dunk. 8 out of 10