If you stop into this bistro looking to re-create a trip to Quebec with a meal of tourtière, poutine, and thick pea soup, you could be confused. “What makes it French Canadian?” you may ask executive chef Ryan Brosseau. “I’m French Canadian,” he’d answer laconically. Brosseau is cooking from the heart, and in a way that plays to his strengths. The food here is of a piece with what he served at Table, Donkey and Stick. It is cold-weather European fare: duck liver mousse with hunks of warm housemade bread to rip into; sweet fried smelts from Lake Ontario; braised goat with red wine velouté; a warm salad of duck confit with white beans and pickled onions. Wine director Terry McNeese is a treasure who knows how to read customers as well as he knows his wine. (He stocked up on Riesling, and on our last visit, he offered a paint-swatch selection of eclectic reds.) If he sees you holding off to have your second glass with your entrée, he may just offer a taste of something to see you through your appetizer. This restaurant is as warm as a rocking chair by the fire.

2965 N. Lincoln Ave., Lake View