A whiteboard in the kitchen here displays a number: a countdown to the number of services left before the team thinks the Michelin Guide may come out and a reminder to everyone on staff of what they’re working toward. Chef Curtis Duffy and his partner, Michael Muser, earned three stars at their previous restaurant, Grace, and though they currently have two, that third is likely. Three stars, in Michelin parlance, means it’s worth visiting the city just to dine at that restaurant. And, yes, at Ever you’re in for an experience like no other, sucked into an atmospheric bubble as soon as you open the door and cross the threshold. Walls curve, passageways narrow, colors mute. The food is so precise it could be made by robots with lasers. You need Muser’s offbeat and delightful wine pairings, which comment on the food and open it up. Imagine this: You get a plate of frozen hamachi that resembles curled sticks of Juicy Fruit over an assemblage of green herbs and purple rice. Then you take a sip of a Riesling with a wild minerality and find out it’s from the Langhe region of Italy. As the hamachi melts, you do too. Vaut le voyage.

1340 W. Fulton St., West Loop