The drama begins with a bright pink exterior and fern-bedecked patio and extends into the striking marble bar that’s curved around the wine-and-conservas-loaded shelves of a 112-year-old pharmacy shipped over from Belgium. Whew! Bonhomme Group’s tapas bar is, with all due respect, a little bit extra. The vibe is undoubtedly over the top, but the food and drinks are beautifully understated by comparison. Order a Spanish-style gin tonic with grapefruit and mint, then share toasts layered with boquerones, anchovies, piparra peppers, and a bright drizzle of yuzu olive oil. Split the garlicky langoustines and nutty slices of jamón ibérico, then crack open a tin of razor clams. Pair it all with pours of sherry from the 30-deep list, or just keep the gin tonics flowing. Last year, Bonhomme earned a Michelin star for Porto, its homage to the Iberian Peninsula’s Atlantic coast. You can head there for fancier plates, but for us, the sherry-soaked fever dream of Mama Delia is where it’s at.

1721 W. Division St., East Ukrainian Village