This project from a trio of friends with upscale dining credentials is like an experimental taco development lab. Thick housemade tortillas cradle everything from blood sausage, pickled red onions, and apples to honey-glazed delicata squash with goat cheese crema and salsa macha. The daily specials really run the gamut, with such creations as a banh mi pork belly taco. We’ve gone fairly bonkers for the duck confit taco with crisp duck skin, date purée, and oranges — yep, that’s a play on duck à l’orange — and enjoyed the clever vegetarian al pastor, made with celery root and mushrooms, when it isn’t too dry. That’s the one thing: The food gets a 10 for creativity and a 6 for consistency. But since the tacos cost only about five bucks a pop, it pays to explore. One sleeper menu item that always hits the mark: the blue corn quesadilla filled with molten raclette cheese. If ever anyone could pull off a Swiss-Mexican mash-up, it’s the chingóns running this joint.

2234 N. Western Ave., Logan Square