Walk through Wazwan — where guests sitting at high-top communal tables snarf pan-Asian street food like okonomiyaki and vada pav (fried potato sliders) — across the courtyard, and into the coach house, which survived the Great Chicago Fire. Here chef Zubair Mohajir serves elaborate eight-course tasting menus (your choice of vegetarian, pescetarian, or omnivorous, all $150 and BYOB). Mohajir has refined the format from his days hosting pop-ups, but it retains a shaggy charm; he serves a garage band jam where the South Asian flavors are so resonant and funky they fill the room. His first small bites — a crab momo, a few slips of sea bass crudo in an oolong tea broth — are good, but the menu really finds its groove as the portions grow larger and the flavors more complex. A steaming sticky-moist fillet of sablefish is grilled à la South Indian pollichathu in a banana leaf with vibrant tomato-coconut masala. That’s his take on a classic. But then comes duck Numidian, a recipe he re-created from a text written in 100 BC. It involves a crisp-skinned confit leg with a sauce of leeks, dates, and pine nuts that tells a story on the tongue. This is a chef to watch.

1742 W. Division St., Wicker Park