Iliana Regan’s Elizabeth was such a hothouse flower that when general manager Tim Lacey bought the business and announced he’d keep it going under a new name, it didn’t seem like anything could take its place. Lucky for him (and us) his search for a chef led him to Christian Hunter (pictured), who has established himself as one of the brightest new voices in the city. While Regan foraged the woods for ingredients, Hunter forages the city for ideas: a visit to nearby San Soo Gab San resulted in a Korean-seasoned beet soup. Working with chef de cuisine Bradyn Kawcak, Hunter changes up the tasting menu nightly, though guests can count on a fantastic first array of bites called “larder” that’s like a mini cocktail party. Semolina-fried cheese curds with romesco? Yes, please. 

Photograph: Jeff Marini