Nearly 20 years in, Michael Carlson’s exercise in punk gastronomy may no longer be the agenda setter it once was, but that’s only because other standouts have caught up to him. At this minimalist, one-room BYO, the young dudes in the kitchen, under chef de cuisine Caleb Trahan, hand-deliver their dozen or more creations to you and do their best to explain (over the din) the ingredients, the inspirations, and the reasoning behind every two-bite joy ride. There will be hits and misses (it might be time to retire the quail egg ravioli) but nothing short of elation. Think beef with strawberry yuzu kosho (a spicy Japanese condiment), ramen fashioned from kataifi (Middle Eastern pastry shreds), and a kind of Choco Taco filled with aged Parmesan ice cream. On a recent menu, a bite of quail in a candied apple coating stopped us short. Everyone at the table just beamed. No words.