There is only one word to describe this restaurant, and that’s fire. After more than a year, the wait lines outside haven’t let up. The buzz hasn’t abated. The heat this place gives off is palpable. Inside, flames and smoke billow from the hearth. So many candles burn you suspect a pagan ritual may unfold. The menu? Simple, direct: a few good things — dry-aged ducks, king salmon, scallops on the half shell — cooked over embers, sauced judiciously, presented without fuss. The bar, likewise, offers a few bespoke cocktails and assertive wines but not a ton of choice. That’s why we love it: You come back to see what the chefs here are up to, what ingredients currently excite them. Dining here feels like getting in touch with something elemental.