Salty bacon and unctuous housemade chorizo with Spanish spices, Piquillo pepper purée bright with tomatoes, a whirl in a wood-burning oven that imparts crisp edges and a little smoke: If salt, fat, acid, and heat are, per food writer Samin Nosrat, “the four cardinal directions of cooking,” then Avec’s signature starter is a dish to set your compass by. $20. 615 W. Randolph St., West Loop; 141 W. Erie St., River North