Although we were one of only three tables seated in the restaurant, it had become clear that no amount of waving would bring a server, so my wife took it upon herself to go into the kitchen. She soon emerged with our waiter, who wasn’t bothered in the least. This sort of thing is par for the course at Nine Garden, yet I’ll keep coming back — the service may be slow, but the folks at this sleekly decorated spot in a new strip mall are friendly. And most important: The Shanghai-style food is consistently solid to great.

Every order for me must include crab lion’s head hot pot; the biggest, fluffiest, silkiest meatball possible, made from crab, pork, and a nice amount of fat, arrives in a clay pot of steaming clear broth with napa cabbage, mushrooms, and both chile and bell peppers. Pure magic. I also never miss the dongpo pork belly, a classic preparation of red-braised meat that has a quivering texture, sweet flavor, and shiny lacquer and is served over rice.

Many other dishes are highlights, like gnawable braised pig trotters and cold Shanghai smoked fish. It’s all worth the trip — and arguably, the wait. But if having to hunt down the staff isn’t your jam, there’s always carryout.