Seeing the colorful saris and throw pillows, I figured this 40-seat Indian storefront in Edgewater would have cliché written all over it. Not even close: The food was satisfyingly complex. I loved the crispy fried okra and savory acorn squash samosas, but the butter chicken in a ghee-enriched oven-dried-tomato sauce and the slow-rise naan pushed my dinner right into OMG territory.

5842 N. Broadway