Illustration: Hawk Krall

Few entrées announce themselves quite like this Mad Men–chic steakhouse’s showstopper: Two servers approach your table with a dining cart, upon which rests a perfectly medium-rare 12-ounce filet mignon topped with mushrooms, spinach, and foie gras (because why not?) and swaddled in a jacket of burnished puff pastry. Then they expertly slice this old-school masterpiece for you as nearby diners say to themselves, “I wish I’d ordered that.”