Years ago, urban and suburban friends frequently met for dinner at Trattoria Trullo, an unassuming Evanston spot, to share rustic Italian cucina and countryside vino. In 2007, chef-owner Giovanni DeNigris moved his earnest operation to Lincoln Square, but some of the charm was lost in translation. Good news: DeNigris is back in the burbs. He changed “Trattoria” to “Osteria” and “Trullo” to “Trulli” and reclaimed his homespun mojo. You can taste it first in the barese sausage, gently textured links with just enough red wine sauce for oomph. Or in melanzane al cartoccio—eggplant wrapped around gloriously seasoned spinach, all awash in zingy pomodoro sauce. Make a meal of the generous antipasti or pace yourself for fettuccine alla Bolognese, the godfather of pasta: a dish you should not refuse.