On a strip dedicated to showmanship—Tavern on Rush sits at the heart of the Viagra Triangle—it’s almost startling to find a restaurant that doesn’t go for glam. You gotta love the acoustic-tiled ceiling, racetrack tote board (with chalk), and wainscoted walls. Prime wet-aged beef takes center stage here, with a deliciously crusty charcoal-grilled 22-ounce rib-eye chop the star. Another bonus: In the à la carte world of steak houses, Tavern kicks in a salad.

The menu, like the crowd, covers a lot of ground, from pork pot stickers to gluten- free pasta. If your heart is set on the banana chocolate chip cheesecake, be conservative and order the completely unpretentious alderwood-planked salmon. The wine list is somewhat pedestrian, but a glass of Gascon Malbec ($10) gets the job done until you start barhopping your way down the street again.

Perfect for: A group that includes people who don’t eat steak