When In-On Thai was forced to close its Lake View location to make way for a condo building in 2016, fans mourned. That included me — I lived right nearby and had developed a serious passion for chef Korakot Vongsatit’s soulful curries and tangy pork ribs. But nothing hooked me harder than the spicy fish, crisp nuggets of stir-fried tilapia bathed in a thick red curry sauce and topped with fried basil leaves. The restaurant returned this year — a bit farther north, in Uptown — and thankfully, that curry fish is back too. Vongsatit makes her pastes in-house, which is not standard for Thai restaurants in the United States, and the effort shows: The sauce is rich and vibrant, with just enough heat. I’m in Uptown now too, and it’s a thrill to have the dish back in my takeout rotation. $15. 4641 N. Broadway