1 Shanghai Terrace

This high-end take comes closest to what you get in Shanghai, with a gossamer skin enclosing a tender meatball and scalding-hot savory soup. $14. The Peninsula, 108 E. Superior St., River North

2 Imperial Lamian

Skip the offbeat twists (you’ll be fine without tasting the Gruyère variant) and you’ll be rewarded with delicate, umami-rich dumpling jewels. $7. 6 W. Hubbard St., River North

3 Homestyle Taste

The exterior is a hair thicker than most connoisseurs prefer, but the steamy soup is on point. $7. 3205 S. Halsted St., Bridgeport

4 Hing Kee

Some days, these dumplings are only fine. But when they’re good, they’re really good — almost translucent skin, intensely porky soup. $8. 2140 S. Archer Ave., Chinatown