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Amy Cavanaugh: Welcome to Dish From Chicago Magazine. I’m Amy Cavanaugh, Chicago magazine’s dining editor.
John Kessler: And I’m John Kessler, Chicago magazine’s dining critic.
Amy: And today we’re talking about our favorite places in Uptown. We’re going to share everything from where we go for pho on Argyle to where we get tacos, burgers, coffee, and more. Plus, we’ll also share the best things we’ve eaten lately, which includes a beet dish at a new hot spot.
Amy: So today, we are digging into all things Uptown. I’ve lived in Buena Park, which is a small, like six-block neighborhood within Uptown, for the past 10 years. So much like our Bucktown guide that John kind of helmed, I’m going to take the lead on our Uptown guide today. I’ve divided it into like three sections: Buena Park, and the immediate spots around me that are in this little six-block radius; Argyle, which has tons of places to eat; and then other Uptown favorites, you know, scattered throughout the neighborhood. So John, have you spent much time in Uptown?
John: I mean, I always get confused. The answer is yes. I have spent a lot of time in Uptown, looking for restaurants, going to places. I could probably tell you all the restaurants on Argyle from memory, there is so much that’s good there, but it’s confusing.
Amy: It’s a big neighborhood, a lot of different little pockets and everything within it. It’s right on the lake. There’s a couple kind of centers of area between. We have Argyle, really kind of forms a big corridor there, and then you have places like around the Lawrence red line and the theater. And so there’s a lot of different little spots. So let’s start off with Buena Park. In Buena Park, one of my go-tos is Michael’s Pizza. Have you ever had this?
John: No.
Amy: It is-
John: Do tell.
Amy: It’s my go-to for tavern style. I’ve probably eaten more pizza from here than anywhere else in the city, and it’s just a great neighborhood sports bar, pizzeria. They have all the other sorts of Chicago favorites, whether it’s Italian beef, wings, whatnot, but the pizza is very solidly good. I don’t think this is best-in-the-city pizza, but this is just the kind of pizza that you have where it’s a good Friday night: We walk over, get it, we get our small bottle of Pepsi that comes with it for free. Yes, used to be RC. And so every time I go do that, I like, this is a very Chicago Friday night. And so-
John: Damn. So that’s Netflix and chill.
Amy: Always solid. I like, I like a sausage and giardiniera, garlic and giardiniera, nothing fancy, but just like, solidly good tavern style, yeah.
John: I mean, you need one of those in your neighborhood. I’m still mourning the loss of My Pi, which, although it was so known for its deep dish, it was just the, it was Bucktown’s favorite tavern-style pie.
Amy: Yeah.
John: And I miss it daily.
Amy: Yeah. Every neighborhood needs that, like very solid go-to tavern place. So the other place I go to a lot, which I know you and I have actually been there together, is Klein’s Bakery, which is, it’s now expanded. I believe there are three locations in the city. It’s a Venezuelan coffee shop. The location on Broadway is the original one. They do some Venezuelan pastries. I’m a fan of, like the ham and cream cheese-stuffed cachitos, which are kind of like, like a sweetened pastry. It’s shaped like a croissant. But then they also just have very solid coffee too. I work from there a lot. It’s really kind of like a good neighborhood gathering place. It’s busy from the second they open till they close in the afternoon. So that’s-
John: Yeah, I remember it was very like, you know, nothing fancy, but just really solid. And they had those nice little Venezuelan like pastries and things, yes.
Amy: So very solid spot for that. I also say that I am like within walking distance of more good Thai restaurants than probably any other spot in the city. There’s Tac Quick, which is not technically in in Uptown range. It is just on the other side of Irving Park, but close enough. There’s Siam Noodle, which is right near Klein’s. And then there’s In-On Thai, which is a little bit further up and has a great red curry fish. But we’ll get into some more Thai places once we talk about Argyle. But like the Thai, like right around Buena Park, is really excellent.
John: There is so much good Thai food up in there. I’m always amazed just by how like big the flavors are.
Amy: Yeah, yeah. And I feel like I probably get Tac Quick the most, they do a remarkably fast delivery. But all three: Tac Quick, Siam Noodle, In-On Thai — all really excellent.
John: Nice.
Amy: And then my last Buena Park spot is Ragadan, which I know you also like as well.
John: Man, that falafel on bread is so good.
Amy: Ka-ak bread, so good. I mean, I’ve been a number of times. I really feel like it’s one of those spots where I think I know what my favorite thing is, and then I go back and I have something else. I’m like, That’s my new favorite thing. But I love the that falafel sandwich, really superb. They do a couple different styles of falafel. The frying is always excellent on them. And then I really love the shakes. I know people-
John: Oh, the baklava shake.
Amy: Right, loses their mind over the baklava shake. I also really love, they do a pistachio shake with candied pistachios on top. Fantastic. And then the burgers are also really solid.
John: They do one of those, like Oklahoma onion burgers.
Amy: And it’s, I think that was, like, the first place I ever had an Oklahoma onion burger. And it’s really, really good. I know that Nick Murway, who did our big burger feature, included them in our best burgers feature that we did a couple years ago. So really solid spot, whether you want burgers, falafel, shakes — and it’s always crowded. Every time I’m there, it’s like, really, you can always get a seat, but it’s a very bustling business, which I love to see.
John: Yeah. I mean, that’s kind of the vibe there, right? I mean, so many of the restaurants are small and bustling, and they’re not like not too many of them are real lookers or anything, but they just have that great — I mean, it’s almost like New York kind of vibe to it, where small places with counter service and just great specialties.
Amy: Yes, yeah. That is definitely a lot of places in Uptown, especially around Argyle as well. So talking Argyle restaurants, what are some of your go-tos?
John: Yes, I’ve really been in and out of every restaurant there. I’ve enjoyed them all. I’m pretty sure there’s 777, and 888, and I think 777, is the one where I went and had absolutely terrific Hanoi-style bun cha, which is the dish with meatballs and noodles and all sorts of other items that come on a big wicker tray, and then you dip them into the into the soup and eat them that way. Nha Hang is very good. Ba Le, I think is always great for a quick Vietnamese sandwich. But they’re all kind of, you know, solid. Do you have a fave?
Amy: I go to DaNang Kitchen a lot, and then Hai Yen, I really like for their bo la lot, those sausages that are wrapped in the the leaves, I think are delicious. You can get those in a variety of different ways. They’re also always really good. I actually go for coffee quite a bit at First Sip, which they offer a variety of different coffees, specialty like lattes and things where they pull in, like, a lot of really good, fun Asian flavors. Not all of them are. The last time I went, I had a pistachio mint, that latte, that was delicious. So actually, I work from there quite a bit. And then, and also-
John: Just quickly, they also do a good Vietnamese like, filter coffee, yeah, it’s very nice there.
Amy: There’s also another new coffee shop. Is it? Fat Miilk just opened. Somewhat, yeah, Fat Miilk. M, I, I, L, K, right on Broadway. Also does a really nice Vietnamese coffee too. I actually took your recommendation and I went to Turkish Doner recently, and that was really good.
John: Isn’t that place cool?
Amy: Yeah, I just grabbed a quick sandwich. The, I did the chicken and your recommendation. It was really tasty. But I can see that being a spot that I go in for something when I just kind of need something fast up there. So that was really solid.
John: Yeah, it’s just, it’s sort of simple, but it’s just it’s got a lot of heart and nice fresh bread, nice grilled meat, a lot of white sauce, and life is good.
Amy: Yeah. How about the Chinese spots around Argyle?
John: So there are quite a few I have really lately been enjoying. Yoo Yee, which opened up, I would say, maybe a year and a half or two years ago. They’re well known for their beef noodle soup, where it’s one of those big, one enormous, hand-cut noodle that’s very thick, like pappardelle, in a very spicy beef broth. And that’s quite good. But also, I just remember all the vegetable dishes were great. It’s a fun place to go with the crowd. And then we can’t forget the classic, which is Sun Wah BBQ for roast duck. Always, the rest of the menu is fine, but you go and you get the roast duck and you’re always happy. I’ve gotten my turkey there too. You can do your Thanksgiving turkey. And that’s always, that’s become part of our tradition.
Amy: Oh, that’s great. I have a friend who swears that the barbecue duck at Hon Kee is better than Sun Wah. I have yet to go test that theory, but that’s maybe a block or two away from there.
Amy: For some other Uptown favorites: Demera, for Ethiopian. Classic go-to. I also got that take-out, that travels super well. And then you’ve been to that Palestinian coffee shop, Nabala before, right?
John: Yeah, it’s a very sweet place. Fun to work. Palestinian owners, they have some very tasty flavored coffees. I kind of recommend the cardamom rose. And some really nice Middle Eastern sweets that are like those kind of cookies that aren’t too sweet with fig or walnut filling, just nice crumbly cookies. There’s also some savory food, which I haven’t tried, but it has a lot of sunshine in the front room and communal tables and little nooks, and it’s great.
Amy: That sounds perfect. Nabala is right near Cariño, which is the most upscale restaurant of the neighborhood.
John: Yeah, it is. And I think you and I are in agreement that while we love the tasting menu in the tiny dining room, we’re pretty bananas for the taco omakase, which happens at 10 o’clock at night, lasts about an hour, and is just kind of one of the great fun late meals in Chicago. now.
Amy: Yeah. It’s fantastic. The beef suadero taco.
John: A-plus, yeah, very fun. And Cariño is getting all the love. It’s up for, semi-finalist for a James Beard Award, and it’s gotten a Michelin star. So great, interesting Mexican flavors from Chef Norman Fenton.
Amy: Yeah, and on a lower price point for tacos that are also great, Birrieria Zaragoza. Their only remaining location right now is in Uptown. And I know you went recently. I’ve been a few times, and I absolutely love it. What did you have on your last visit?
John: Yeah, we got the, let’s see you can get it in broth or on a plate, like in a bowl or on a plate. And I think we went with the bowl, and the birria was just so delicious and succulent. Came with a nice stack of tacos and all the salsas and condiments. And then we also got a couple of quesabirrias, the gooey folded tacos with the stewed goat meat and cheese inside, and absolutely delicious, with a little consommé for dunking, and just had a great time. Lovely, lovely place.
Amy: Nice. And then my last uptown pick is the Lao Sze Chuan – Uptown. This is the best Lao for whatever reason, the food here is like the most consistent, most delicious. I mostly, I haven’t eaten there in years, but I get it, take out and delivery like quite often. I love the salt and pepper tofu. I love the garlic eggplant. My very favorite dish is green beans with black bean sauce. Absolutely delicious. Probably one of the things I eat most in the city.
John: There is something so satisfying about vegetarian Chinese carryout.
Amy: Yeah.
John: There is, I don’t know what it is, because it’s, it’s hearty and saucy, and yet it’s, you don’t feel too weighed down by it. But I don’t know. I love it. Sounds exactly like my order, also kind of like that place, Yummy Yummy Asian Cuisine, which is a little further down. It’s kind of closer to Wrigleyville. But have you ever gotten carry out from there? They have, like they do, they lean a little bit more into the meat substitute. So you’ve got to be okay with quote-unquote chicken or seitan or soy protein. But it’s really, God, it just hits. The Kung Pao, whatever meat substitute is so good.
Amy: All right, that’s good endorsement.
John: Yeah, it’s been a little while, but I do love Immm for their, you know, their nice kind of big salads and things. Immm is that Thai restaurant that makes a lot of very good Northern Thai food. They also have some cocktails, I guess, which I’ve never tried. And. Anything else?
Amy: I think that probably does it.
Amy: What’s the best thing you ate lately?
John: Oh, my God, Amy. The best thing I ate lately, and the best thing I ate in like a year were these oysters at Cellar Door Provisions with a — they’re Jack’s Point oysters, which were kind of mildly briny oysters, East Coast variety. It seemed like they had been a little, like they had been brushed or passed through a slightly acidic sauce or an acidic dip of some sort, and then they were covered with this foamy, creamy white asparagus vin blanc butter sauce. And it was, like, great sushi in the way it was kind of warm and cold together, and the flavors were so bonkers weird and so utterly perfect. And I can, like, I can talk about them and still taste them. So if that is still on the menu, get you some. And how about you? You mentioned something about beets earlier.
Amy: Yeah, so I’ve actually eaten at the Radicle like, twice in a couple of weeks, and there’s a number of dishes I like there. I think the pizzas are very good, but the sleeper hit of the menu is the baby beets, which, it’s a small, chilled dish, nice little starter, shared plate to kind of kick things off. Mixed with fermented mushrooms and then mojama which is salt-cured tuna, not something I was familiar with previously. These are so good, they’re funky, they’re satisfying. They’re just like a perfect little single plate to kick things off, you know, kind of clean your palate before the pizzas come. Highly recommend these. On both my meals, they were the favorite of everyone at the table. So those are definitely kind of a sleeper hit on that fun menu there.
John: Gonna have to remember that for the next time I am there without my wife, because she does not allow beats to be anywhere in the same room. She will not eat beets, but I will remember that and figure out a time to go to the Radicle and disinvite her.