Chicago took home three awards on Monday night at the 35th annual James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards, including Kumiko for Outstanding Bar, Noah Sandoval of Oriole for Best Chef: Great Lakes, and Lem’s Bar-B-Q for America’s Classics (an honor announced in February). 

Sandoval was unable to attend, but had a friend accept the award and say a few words on his behalf. He expressed his deep gratitude from the whole team at Oriole, and ended the brief note with “f** ICE.” Immigration was a recurring theme in speeches throughout the night, as many winners and presenters focused on the importance of immigrants to restaurants, and how deeply they are woven into the fabric and success of the industry. 

Governor JB Pritzker’s opening remarks also touched on the importance of cultural diversity in restaurants and Chicago’s long and rich history of establishing community and connection through food. 

“From Little Italy to Chinatown, we have a deep and lengthy tradition of bringing people together through food, and every neighborhood restaurant is a story,” Pritzker said. “Whether it’s an immigrant who brings their cherished family recipes to our welcoming city or a long-time local who has perfected their neighborhood cuisine and character. They are a microcosm of all that is great about this country. Across this nation, we need to celebrate the rich tradition of diversity and find time for more eating, drinking, celebrating and more culture exchange at this moment especially in the world.” 

Local chef and beverage pro presenters for the night included Stephanie Izard, Alpana Singh, and Rick Bayless, who announced the Great Lakes Award and commended the Chicago chef community for the record number of local nonprofits they’ve launched.

We caught up with Chicago winners Julia Momosé of Kumiko and Lem’s Bar-B-Q’s Carmen Lemons and Lynn Walker Harvey fresh off the Lyric Opera stage.

Julia Momosé, Kumiko (Outstanding Bar)

How did you feel when you heard your name called?

My heart was already racing, and then it stopped and then I was like, I have to stand up now and go. I felt this deep wave of excitement and responsibility. Not just because I had to go up on stage and talk to a bunch of people, but just from now there’s so much more to come. People are going to be looking at us and seeing what we’re doing and seeing what we’re talking about and that’s a huge responsibility. I’m excited to step into that and so excited for the team. I can’t wait to see them tonight.

Do you have any mentors or colleagues to thank for getting you here?

It’s been 12 years in Chicago, six years of Kumiko, and through that my former partner Sammy Faze was a huge support in opening Kumiko in general. We’re friends now but I generally appreciate him and his support in getting that space open. To my team past and present and some new team members who have been the most immense support in the last couple months, my (chef de cuisine) Evelyn (Aloupas) and my (general manager) Daniel (Harrington), those two have shifted what Kumiko is going to be able to achieve. There is so much potential in us because of them and I’m proud.

What other Chicago bars or restaurants or chefs inspired you in your career?

Rootstock back in the day when Tonya Pyatt was there. The way she worked that room — I could sit down and work on opening Kumiko, she let me work on my computer. She would pour wine based on what I was eating and just be there and that kind of hospitality. The Marty brothers (Chris and Calvin) at Best Intentions, the fun and camaraderie there, and Le Bouchon, the brothers (Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey), that kind of history is something I really aspire too.

Carmen Lemons and Lynn Walker Harvey, Lem’s (America’s Classics)

How did you feel when you knew Lem’s was being honored with an America’s Classics award this year?

Harvey: We were humble, but grateful, we just thank God for the opportunity to be here. We’ve done it for a very long time. 

What is the secret to the success of Lem’s?

Harvey: Commitment and hard work. 

Lemons: And our sauce, seasoning, and style of our BBQ, and the way we cook it with the aquarium pan, charcoal, hickory wood, and fire. That’s the main secret. 

Do you have any mentors or colleagues to thank for getting you here?

Harvey: Our father and our uncles. We followed what they taught us and we continue to do it the way we were taught. 

Lemons: And we’ve enhanced it. We package and sell our seasoning and sauce in our store. I had to respect the fact that my father did things one way and I knew one day I would have the opportunity to make some changes. I had to respect that, he wasn’t used to technology. I had to wait until it was my time. You have to respect your parents, wait until that opportunity comes and then you can make those changes. 

What other Chicago bars/restaurants or chefs inspired you in your career?

Lemons: One of my favorites is Bonefish, it’s in Orland Park. They know me and I know them and I have a special table when I come. I order bang bang shrimp or seafood. They have supported us and I’ve taken food to them to enjoy.