Hip without chasing trends, more snug than smug, this early adopter of farm-to-table principles continues to turn out creative, enlightened food that glides through the seasons at a high level.

A spring entrée employed lemon and three preparations of cauliflower to complement leaner-than-usual short ribs and banish winter heaviness. Beet bruschetta chaperones marinated kale, revivifying the beets–goat cheese–red onion cliché. A smelts appetizer marries a fried crunch, soft fish, and a thick citrus sauce. The arty but unpretentious atmosphere exudes honesty, with knowledgeable (not know-it-all) servers and ingredient-driven prices. Contentment reigns.

Dishes we liked: Beet bruschetta ($10), crispy George’s Bank smelts ($10), mortadella-stuffed rabbit saddle ($28), short ribs ($25), Mast Brothers chocolate crémeux ($10)