Counter Culture
Five new spots where the food is worth waiting (and waiting) in line for
2014
Five new spots where the food is worth waiting (and waiting) in line for
Gogi 6240 N. California Ave. 773-274-6669 Korean $30 to $40 Chef: Chris Kim Website Anyone who’s into Korean barbecue will likely remain loyal to his go- to place. But Gogi, the brainchild of a former rock promoter named Pete Cho and his mother, Stella, entered the debate with a friendly, modern approach that … Read more
Tanta Best Meat Dish Rib eye a lo pobre Wet-aged beef in chorrillana sauce topped with a fried egg Kinmont Best Appetizer Salmon tartare A fine dice mixed with kicky condiments and ready to spread on housemade crisps Travelle Best Dessert Nutella baklava Delicate phyllo filled with Nutella ganache and chopped walnuts The Radler Best … Read more
Stella Barra Pizzeria 1954 N. Halsted St. 773-634-4101 Pizza $20 to $30 Dining Guide listing Website Jeff Mahin Jeff Mahin, the Lettuce Entertain You chef who practically perfected the doughnut at Do-Rite, works similar magic on crust at this sleek artisanal pizza parlor, a sibling of the two in Southern California. He and … Read more
Dusek's 1227 W. 18th St. 312-526-3851 New American $35 to $45 Chef-partner: Jared Wentworth Dining Guide listing Website Not long ago, a place like Dusek’s would have registered as little more than a blip on the radar. “Serious” diners wouldn’t have paid much mind to a casual, beer-focused neighborhood establishment that served things … Read more
Beatrix Aloft, 519 N. Clark St. 312-284-1377 American $35 to $45 Chef-partners: John Chiakulas, Rita Dever, Susan Weaver Dining Guide listing Website The current line on Lettuce Entertain You is that the restaurant group has recaptured the hip reputation it once enjoyed. Most attribute the renaissance to the offspring of its chairman, Rich … Read more
Nico Osteria Thompson Hotel, 1015 N. Rush St. 312-994-7100 Italian $50 to $60 Chef: Erling Wu-Bower Dining Guide listing Website For most restaurateurs, Nico would constitute a masterpiece, the shining culmination of a career. For One Off Hospitality, an extraordinary empire that’s ruled by Paul Kahan, Donnie Madia, Terry Alexander, and four other … Read more
Tanta 118 W. Grand Ave. 312-222-9700 Peruvian $30 to $40 Chef: Jesus Delgado Dining Guide listing Website Oh, Gastón Acurio. You’re a superstar with 32 restaurants in 12 countries, so this probably means little to you, but on behalf of Chicago, please accept our apology. How ready we were to skewer you like … Read more
Five more to watch for
42 Grams 4662 N. Broadway New American $203.68 Chef-owner: Jake Bickelhaupt Dining Guide listing Website Less kooky than Elizabeth and less affordable than EL Ideas—and more polished than both—42 Grams acquits itself well as Chicago’s latest upscale dinner party restaurant. You and seven others sit at a deep stainless steel countertop abutting the … Read more