Mini Review: Olive Or Twist in Berwyn

“American comfort food with flair—a place where diners can afford to eat more than once a week,” says Mr. Every Restaurateur in Town. It’s also Robert Nava’s take on his newly minted spot attached to a six-year-old martini bar owned by Marty and Regina Mendicino in Berwyn. Sounds so familiar as to be improbable, but Nava gets it right: O or T’s retro, cozy dining room sports a breezy menu and good-natured service. The caesar salad ($6) and the applewood-smoked pork chop ($16) have style and flavor to burn. Huge portions and whimsical martinis, too. Please, sir, I want some more. 6906 Windsor Ave., Berwyn; 708-484-1808.

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