Moto (Updated Listing): Playful Presentations, Serious Food

Homaro Cantu still hasn’t lost his sense of childlike wonder when it comes to the kitchen.

Prawn melon course at Moto   Photo: Amy Stallard

Culinary techie Homaro Cantu continues to tinker with—and overturn—the staid conventions of fine dining with a rare combination of cooking skill and childlike experimentation. Expect him to fill his seasonal 14-course tasting menus with shape-shifting oddities such as shriveled freeze-dried grapes in a rich and milky gazpacho, braised bison with chilies pulverized into pixie-like dust to mimic an arid Southwestern landscape, and olive oil foams set next to emulsified olive jellies and braised octopus for a tongue-in-cheek take on a traditional seafood platter. Cantu creates playful presentations at will, but don’t underestimate his skill in showcasing traditional flavors in new forms that makes his food odysseys worthwhile. Request a secluded high-backed banquette to maximize the element of surprise, and indulge in wine pairings to take the experience to another level.  

Dishes We Liked: (All are part of a prix fixe menu.) Corn Suspension: bites of quail suspended over corn chowder; Spice Trade: goat presentations served with smoked eggplant purée; Picnic: cheese creations on red-checked napkins; Tree Trunk: maple syrup over sweetbreads, bacon, pancakes, and egg yolks; Baking 101: DIY peach pie with grapefruit juice.

Share

Advertisement

Comments to this blog are moderated. We review them in an effort to remove foul language, commercial messages, and irrelevancies.

Submit your comment