Oceanique (New Review): High-End Seafood, With a Price Tag to Match

The seafood is great in spite of its occasionally fussy presentation at this Evanston fine-dining standby.

Maine lobster at Oceanique   Photo: Kurman Photography

Mark Grosz puts haute cuisine moves—and prices—on fine sea fare in his perennially popular and recently renovated Spanish-style haven.

Expect delicate amuses and intermezzo sorbets to frame precisely cooked fish and shellfish garnished with freshly picked produce in complex, if occasionally overwrought, presentations. Succulent lobster figures in both chowdery Michigan corn soup and a salad of heirloom tomato, avocado, and buffalo mozzarella dappled with caviar. Port reduction makes an ideal sauce for snowy Alaskan halibut with basil mashed potatoes and local vegetables.

Among dessert platter stars: pot de crème with caramel and Valrhona chocolate. Vast award-winning wine list. BYO Monday only.

Dishes We Liked:  Wild Maine dayboat scallop sashimi with arugula, peach, yuzu, and fig ($20); organic Danish Faroe Islands salmon with turmeric, poblano, elote, and butternut squash ($38); warm three-nut tart with lemon balm ice cream ($13)

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