When we last saw John Avila, he was slinging Indonesian food at Minahasa in Revival Food Hall. The chef built a fan base there for beautifully seasoned dishes, but slow traffic forced him to close.

It always felt like his food deserved its own space, which it now has in Rendang Republic, a counter-service spot he opened with Rizal Hamdallah in April near Wrigleyville. The location is just right: People in Cubs gear sit side by side with folks of Indonesian heritage and neighborhood residents like me. We’re all here for dishes like Mama Betty’s lumpia, a delightfully greasy egg roll stuffed with chicken and shrimp. And if you’re new to Indonesian food, start with the beef rendang, tender chunks of beef braised in coconut milk, lemongrass, cinnamon, and other spices and served with rice, creamy collard greens, pickled veggies, and sambal for heat.

Eventually, try the clever Indonesian-Chicago mash-ups, which are new to this location. There’s beef rendang on a roll with giardiniera for a twist on Italian beef, and a chicken hot dog made by the Duck Inn that Avila drags through a garden of sambal aïoli, a pickled relish, tomato, fried shallots, cilantro, and green onion, tucking it into a poppy seed bun. It’s genius: Avila has created a dish that’s both a clear homage to the classic and entirely its own thing.