A lesser chef might be a little nervous around monkfish. Its lean meat can dry out at the slightest suggestion of overcooking, and the prehistoric-looking anglerfish doesn’t have the sex appeal of, say, salmon. Luckily Ellison Park (pictured) is fearless, taking the fish’s hearty tail flesh and basting it in butter infused with a curry-like … Read more
These puffy steamed buns — fist-sized and generously stuffed — float through the supermarket’s walk-up window seven days a week. A team of dogged women makes the Korean street-food staple from scratch in three flavors: velvety red bean, zesty kimchi with pork, and a milder mix of juicy pork nubs and shredded veggies. Your first … Read more
Amadai (Japanese tilefish) is a luxury in Kyoto that often gets pickled and grilled. But Otto Phan deep-fries it, scales and all, basically turning the fish into cracklings, which he crowns with caviar and horseradish before placing it directly into your hand. It feels dangerously fragile, but it hits your tongue with the force of … Read more
For the uninitiated, think of lengua, or beef tongue, as a secret second short rib: It’s all tenderness and fat, the perfect foil for a piquant salsa or two. Cesar Castillo, the remarkably chill taquero at this grocery-store counter joint, never overcooks the delicate meat, working with it on its own terms. Order extra.
At his sprawling Mag Mile joint, self-made bread baron Rich Labriola turns out truly revelatory deep dish, possibly the first improvement on the form in a generation. The double-proofed, focaccia-style dough is lined with mozzarella and then browned to a crackly, caramelized crunch, yielding a crust more flavorful and nuanced than what the tourists queue … Read more
Eddie Lee made a bold decision to try and one-up the legendary chicken lollipops at Albany Park’s Great Sea Restaurant. Be glad he did: This is twice-fried poultry that bests its predecessor, with exceptionally crispy skin glossed in a zingy sauce that makes the meat glisten like amber. Each order comes with a paper boat … Read more
Think you’ve seen everything under the fried chicken sun? Darnell Reed begs to differ, lightly coating his fried chicken in a proprietary mix of Creole seasonings, Crystal hot sauce, and lots of melted butter. He calls it “gospel bird,” and it’s a firecracker of smoky, peppery flavor. We’re only too happy to spread the good … Read more
Lula’s brunch is the great equalizer, an approachable menu that can sustain both food obsessives and those who couldn’t care less what they eat after a night of drinking. The burly burrito from chef Jason Hammel (pictured) is the pinnacle of the form: Just avocado, cheese, eggs, vegetables, and potatoes, assembled with care, in ideal … Read more
Sometimes the best decision is to sit back and let the ingredients do the work, as has been done to exceptional effect at this three-year-old Spanish-style seafood spot. Case in point: the boquerónes. It’s a simple plate of white anchovies, swimming in a lake of peppery Spanish olive oil and dressed lightly with fennel, piquillo … Read more
This decadent centerpiece consists of a sea of fusilli guarded by three juicy cacciatore sausages, four immense soppressata meatballs, a fall-off-the-bone tomato-braised pork shank, and a helluva lot of oregano. It’s a protein-and-carb orgy. If you plan on ordering it, bring reinforcements.
