Above:Meatball pizza

Chicago probably didn’t need another pizzeria, but we’re happy to wedge in one that’s as impressive as Bebu. Its pies emerge from the gas-fired oven chewy and char-speckled, airy yet sturdy enough to support toppings such as crumbles of housemade fennel-flecked sausage or drizzles of honey. They make for great takeout fare, but settling in at a table in the white-walled open dining room lets you fully explore Bebu's charms: a surprisingly deep stash of reserve wines by the bottle, tender meatballs swimming in tomato sauce in a mini cast-iron skillet, and a Little Gem salad with a sherry vinaigrette that pushes the side dish to center stage. Buzzier pizza places may have opened in the past year, but Bebu’s pies are the ones we continue to crave.

Don’t miss:The mushroom pizza ($20), perked up with an unexpected dose of balsamic vinegar.