Parsnip ice cream with granita, 3 Sisters fried grits, oil-poached kampachi, rigatoni with corona beans, poached Bartlett pear
Clockwise from right: 3 Sisters fried grits, oil-poached kampachi, rigatoni with corona beans Photo: Jeff Marini

Could chefs Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark possibly create another restaurant as charming and resourceful as Parachute, their beloved Korean-American spot on Elston Avenue? The proof is just a few doors down. At Wherewithall, the 50-seat restaurant they opened last July in an old auto parts shop, Kim and Clark shuffle ingredients in and out of the different-every-night four-course menu like cardsharps, but the offerings, like Atlantic hake baked in a vin jaune sauce reduction until the fish absorbs every last smidgen of butter and shallots, never feel like tricks. The $65 meal includes four extra bites, like an amuse-bouche of heirloom Broccolini in Alpine cheese foam. In price, in length, in warmth, Wherewithall has cleverly lightened up the tasting menu experience.

Update:Wherewithall is open for carryout and delivery and is offering nightly family meals like spaghetti and meatballs made with Slagel Farms veal, pork, and Italian sausage. Plus, it has expanded to offer daytime coffee and super-creative pastries (like a pepperoni and pecorino croissant and grilled rhubarb and cream cheese Danish), plus lunchtime sandwiches, including a killer muffuletta.