This restaurant inside Time Out Market differs from its Norse namesake in a few crucial ways. Its roof is not thatched with gold, there is no burning hearth attended by goddesses, and Odin is totally MIA. But you will feast here, and beautifully. Chef Stephen Gillanders (S.K.Y., Apolonia) has chosen the mezzanine above a boisterous food hall as the place to push himself and his loyal team, which includes pastry chef Tatum Sinclair and sommelier Jelena Prodan. Prodan proposes thoughtful pairings for the tasting menu ($185). But if you’re ordering à la carte, which I suggest you do for your first visit, she’ll select a few glasses to see you through the meal. Sinclair has a lot of good ideas, among them a pineapple dessert that zings with hot and cold components. Standouts from Gillanders’s initial menu include raw fluke with apples and pine nuts in a brightly acidic green froth, a fantastic savory porridge of farina and cheese, and ridiculously fun trompe l’oeil mini-pastries that look sweet but aren’t. The most exciting part of Valhalla is how with each meal you can witness a great chef finding his voice. 916 W. Fulton Market