In the great home-cooking resurgence of the pandemic, one condiment reigned supreme: chile crisp. I’ve used versions by Lao Gan Ma, Fly by Jing, and Trader Joe’s for their nuanced heat, appealing crunch, and versatility, but lately I’m filling my spice cabinet with new, locally made jars. I have Spice Without Borders’ Bombay Chili Crunch ($8), which Jasmine Sheth loads up with shallots, garlic, and curry leaves (take her suggestion and use it to cook a fried egg). Kimski chef Won Kim taps Korean ingredients like gochujang and gochugaru for his Chili Crisp Oil ($9), while James Lee’s Chilee Oil ($15) takes a pan-Asian approach with roasted sesame, Thai chiles, and star anise. I love those two as dumpling sauces. My go-to, which is basically jarred umami, is Vargo Brother Ferments’ Chili Crisp ($9), which Sebastian Vargo makes with multiple peppers and dried shiitakes. Put it on tacos, put it on pizza, or, heck, just eat it with a spoon. All are available at (except Chilee Oil, which you can get at