After 21 years, the Boka Group’s flagship seasonal American restaurant has proved its staying power. But even more impressive: It’s never been better. Helmed by Lee Wolen for the past decade, the flavors are dialed in: slow-cooked Icelandic cod with morels, tarragon, and tangles of spring onions tastes like a walk in the fresh April woods; mandarin orange and burnt honey bring out the essence of chicken liver mousse piped on brioche. Nicole Guini’s desserts achieve textural mastery, as in “Citrus,” where spruce, grapefruit, and white chocolate are presented through icy, jellied, and crunchy components. Boka is the rare place that’s both a destination and a neighborhood restaurant, where you can order the eight-course tasting menu and celebrate a birthday, or post up at the bar for Wolen’s signature black truffle roast chicken and a good pour.