You may think of Otto Phan’s side-by-side omakase bars as distinct restaurants; we like to think of them as two sides of the same coin. Maybe that’s because we often dream of the intricately constructed small plates and rare wild fish that make up the menu at Kyoten, but the cost of a meal ($1,000 for two) makes it a spurge for the most special of occasions. At Next Door, which is less than half the price, the experience consists almost entirely of nigiri, and the fish is also special. You can feast on fresh sardines, gizzard shad, and other silver-skinned species that few chefs know how to cure. Then sink your teeth into buri, a wild mature yellowtail that is a world away from the farmed and frozen hamachi you know. A meal here is a lesson.