When this modern Filipino spot opened in 2020, its business model seemed cool but odd. For breakfast and lunch, it would offer fast-casual counter service with pastries, coffee, a few plates, and sandwiches. Dinners would be a seated fine-dining tasting menu. Who knew how influential Kasama would become? Today it’s worth braving the perpetual daytime lines (made even longer by the restaurant’s appearance on The Bear, its Michelin star, and the James Beard Award that owners Tim Flores and Genie Kwon, pictured, took home last year) for a taste of the now-classic ube Basque cake, Délice de Bourgogne croissant, and mushroom adobo. And you’ll want to sit on the reservation book until you can get a table at dinner, where the menu tours traditional Filipino techniques: inasal (char-grilled) squab, kinilaw (ceviche) kampachi with golden caviar, and nilaga (stew) fashioned from melty cabbage and bone marrow. Even that amazing croissant makes a mic-drop appearance at night.