Having lived in Japan for a couple of years, I can recognize the two kinds of Japanese restaurants in America. There are those that serve the craveable treats people the world over love — sushi, tempura, ramen — and those that serve the more varied dishes Japanese natives search out for a taste of home. In the Chicago area, the latter exist almost exclusively in the north and northwest suburbs, closer to where many expats live. Here are my three faves.
SchaumburgTorizen
Lunch here is never a bad idea — particularly if you order the crackly Berkshire pork tonkatsu. But at night, you can try all the izakaya dishes you won’t find elsewhere. I’m obsessed with the daikon salad topped with crispy whole silverfish, bonito flakes, and nori. 22 E. Golf Rd. torizen.us

WilmetteTorino Ramen
What began as a real-deal Japanese ramen shop has expanded into neighboring storefronts and a broad menu encompassing sushi and small plates like fried tofu in broth and sautéed burdock root. 1162 Wilmette Ave. torinoramen.com
PalatineRamen House Shinchan
I’ve only been to this location (there are also outposts in Glenview and Vernon Hills), and while I dig the Best Condition — yes, that’s the name of the Nagoya-style ramen dish filled with roasted garlic cloves and stir-fried veggies — I go mainly for the made-from-scratch curry rice, so much better than the packaged versions. 1939 S. Plum Grove Rd. ramen-shinchan.com