Nearly all Mediterranean countries produce feta-style cheese; in France, the sheep’s milk gets a light pressing and mild brine so the texture is creamy and the flavor lush. Jason Hammel doubles down on these qualities by baking the feta until its surface glazes and sending it out with marinated olives, cucumber slices, and an oddly perfect jalapeño-basil oil. To enjoy it to its fullest, order extra grilled bread and a bottle of rosé. $18. 2537 N. Kedzie Blvd., Logan Square