Sarah Grueneberg’s cooking always shines when she lets her Texas roots come out to play. So there are a few ringers on the menu, notably this dip made from gently smoked Gulf redfish and sided by a big ol’ heap of hot waffle fries. A bit of giardiniera, fresh dill, and confit fennel gussies things up, but at the end of the day, it’s fries and smoked fish: Close your eyes, and you’re at a Galveston fish camp. $12. 1020 W. Madison St., West Loop