Much to my chagrin, Chicago has never been a slice town. Matt Sussman (Table, Donkey and Stick; Danke) shares that lament. Growing up in Westchester County, New York, “there were three different places I could walk to for a slice,” he recalls. While we aren’t there yet in Chicago, Pizza Dada, which Sussman runs with pizzaiolo Steve Owens at Sterling Food Hall, is filling that slice void downtown.

These New York–style slices are great. The menu includes 10 of them, which are thin without any sag. The vodka roni, with crisp pepperoni cups, basil, rich vodka sauce, and Parm, is a standout, as is the white pie, with garlic, basil, dollops of ricotta, and lemon. Up the ante on the white one by making it a Caesar, which piles on crisp, dressed romaine — it’s pizza and a salad in one. It’s super garlicky, so if you’re as into garlic as I am, you’ll love it. Dada also offers thicker, square grandma slices; I liked the earthy mushroom and truffle one. Both styles use a dough made with sourdough starter, yeast, and four types of flour. (Sussman never does anything halfway.)

Dada is slice-only from 11:45 a.m. to 1 p.m. Before and after that, though, you can get whole pies. They’re available for delivery, which means I’m now making Dada part of my at-home rotation.