What’s the fastest-growing seller among adult beverages at Foxtrot, the fancy Chicago-based bodega chain? Nonalcoholic wine. “I think there is some curiosity, but most customers drink it as a way to moderate their alcohol consumption as opposed to cutting it out entirely,” says beverage director Dylan Melvin. You’ll find two kinds: those made with juices, spices, and teas, and those made the traditional way, just with the alcohol removed. But these aren’t merely a substitute for booze. The influx of wine alternatives launched in the past couple of years has yielded some quality bottles. We asked three Chicago wine pros to share their top picks.

1. Fre Cabernet Sauvignon

Suggested by Tia Barrett, Esmé beverage director

“It has enough weight for meats like pork or lamb. I also use this in a no-proof Americano cocktail with Giffard apéritif syrup and soda water with an orange slice.”
Try it $10 a glass at Esmé, 2200 N. Clark St., Lincoln Park

2. Oddbird Blanc de Blancs Sparkling

Suggested by Dylan Melvin, Foxtrot beverage director

“The grapes are from southern France, and the wine has notes of quince, lemon, and brioche. This is the closest nonalcoholic wine I have had to Champagne.”
Try it $23.99 a bottle at Foxtrot, foxtrotco.com for locations

3. Proxies Blanc Slate

Suggested by Jose Villalobos, Parachute wine manager

“It’s refreshing, bright, and crisp. They use Sauvignon Blanc grapes, kiwi, lemon, and white tea. It makes you want to keep going for more.”
Try it $13 a glass at Parachute, 3500 N. Elston Ave., Avondale