Michael and Patrick Sheerin’s striking steampunk chamber pulls off a neat trick. It manages to feel like a crowd pleaser while seamlessly working in off-kilter creations such as candied quinoa and Pickle Tots and punching up a rib eye with pickled turmeric or a chocolate crémeux with red Fresno chilies. And when the brothers play it straight, as with potato gnocchi slippery with ricotta cream and punctuated by black winter truffles and nubs of country-cured ham, you know the kitchen isn’t coasting on gimmickry. The steady servers and Tona Palomino’s killer cocktails (order the Divide & Concord, a grape-toned concoction involving absinthe, egg whites, and gin) also help make Trenchermen the right restaurant at the right time for Wicker Park: equal parts geniality and trickery.