While this boîte didn’t wow us when it opened last April, Carrie Nahabedian (Naha) stayed the course, and Brindille has matured into a destination for French cuisine in style and comfort. From soothing decor to tables covered with pressed damask, Brindille manages to feel swank yet unstuffy—exactly what Nahabedian wanted.

Carrie Nahabedian
Carrie Nahabedian

Hand-cut noodles with red-wine-braised snails and black trumpet mushrooms offers an earthy textural delight; char-crusted scallops with parsley-scallion purée dispels the notion of barely cooked scallops for all time. An intense Madeira reduction makes a filet mignon, the blandest of all steaks, stand up to the competition—exactly as Nahabedian promised.

The grown-up buzz and perfect lack of pretension here come at a fairly steep price, but Brindille’s soulful presentations and flavors leave you with no regrets.

Perfect for: Diners who long for the era before small plates, molecular gastronomy, and pop-ups

Illustration: John Kenzie