Chicago’s Mexican sandwich scene is strong, but Taquizas Valdez, which chef-owner Ivan Valdez opened in December, is raising the bar. Take the pambazo Valdez, which consists of bread dipped in chile sauce, toasted, then stuffed with sautéed mushrooms, refried black beans, crispy fries, lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado, lime crema, queso fresco, and salsa macha. It’s a beast that could feed two. And dare I say it’s the best Mexican sandwich in the city right now?

Taquizas Valdez also offers tacos and wings for lunch and dinner, and chilaquiles and a Nutella and cream cheese Danish for breakfast. It’s a menu that combines homey fare with refined techniques and speaks to Valdez’s background: He learned to cook by following his mother around the family kitchen and worked professionally at restaurants like Quiote.

Besides the pambazo, try the crispy wings, which come dressed with Valdez’s mother’s mole or lemon-pepper dry rub — I love the piquant flavor of the latter. His tacos, too, push beyond the standard lineup you see everywhere: El Americano comes with marinated skirt steak, melted Muenster, lettuce, tomato, and a bright lime crema on a toasted flour tortilla. It’s the kind of bite that inspires a return visit to see how Valdez keeps innovating.