If you’ve visited a Wisconsin supper club, you know the drill: Before dinner, you’re having an old-fashioned. This is not a stirred whiskey cocktail, but rather brandy with muddled fruit, sugar, angostura bitters, and a topper of soda (7Up, Squirt, or soda water). Now it’s all the rage here, too. Here are four to try.

The Frozen Sconnie Old-Fashioned

L. Woods Tap & Pine Lodge

The Northwoods-inspired supper club offers the coldest version, a fruit-forward slushie made with Korbel brandy. “We’ve been having fun with old-fashioneds since we began almost 25 years ago,” says partner Terry Lawler. Various iterations have included Malört and strawberry-rhubarb, while the latest take taps orange and lemon juices, cherry syrup, and angostura bitters to achieve the right balance. Lawler says it’s been just right for this hot summer: “Sitting on the patio having a Frozen Sconnie has been very popular.” $15. 7110 Lincoln Ave., Lincolnwood

Wisconsin Old-Fashioned

Charis Listening Bar

For the opening menu at this listening bar, beverage director Gina Hoover says she and owner Alex Jandernoa “wanted to focus on accessibility.” A Wisconsin old-fashioned fit the bill. Their take uses Odvi Armagnac, muddled orange and Luxardo maraschino cherries, Demerara syrup, and house-carbonated soda. A mist of orange bitters “creates an echo between the orange and cherry and Armagnac,” Hoover says. “I like to find a way to create a line.” $15. 3317 S. Morgan St., Bridgeport

Brandy Wisconsin Old-Fashioned

Gus’ Sip & Dip

Beverage director Kevin Beary opted to offer a Wisconsin old-fashioned rather than a whiskey one. Thanks to the soda, “the Wisconsin old-fashioned is almost a long drink,” he says. “For a bar like Gus’, it seemed more approachable, since you can have two, three, four, as opposed to one or two whiskey ones.” Beary’s take uses cognac, muddled orange and maraschino cherries, and 7Up. If you want to try it with Squirt for a sour version, or with soda water, the bar can oblige. $12. 51 W. Hubbard St., River North

Supper Club Old-Fashioned

Daisies

Beverage director Nicole Yarovinsky offers a clever twist that fits into Daisies’ approach to seasonality and Midwestern culture. Using local spruce tips, she ferments a soda that’s reminiscent of Sprite but also “tastes like you’re sitting in the woods,” she says. She uses brandy as the base and includes a little rye to smooth out the flavors, while cherry bitters provide the final touch. $15. 2375 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square