Arun Sampanthavivat’s elegant temple of upscale Thai cuisine continues to cast a mesmerizing spell, offering diners poetically conceived 12-course tasting menus that honor tradition while embracing ingenuity.

The set menu can change on a whim. Diners choose from one of three spice levels—mild, traditional, or fiery—and then go wherever Sampanthavivat chooses to take them. Beet-soaked vermicelli noodles in a coconut broth with prawns, a bowl of classic tom kha soup, or turmeric-spiced chicken curry with won tons and egg noodles makes for a colorful, texturally rich culinary journey. Seven-course meal available to early-bird diners on select weekdays evenings.

Dishes We Liked:  (All dishes are part of a prix fixe menu.) Coconut vermicelli noodles, fried prawns, black bean tofu sauce, thin omelet, chopped chives and lemon; yellow turmeric curry with chicken, roasted garlic, won tons, and egg noodles; massaman curry beef tenderloin with coconut sauce; fried red snapper, sweet-sour chili, celery, carrots, and beets