Table, Donkey and Stick

Photo: Travas Machel

When you crowdsource to decide who your chef will be, as this cozy Alpine-style storefront did in a series of pop-up dinners last fall, the vote can go in a lot of directions, few of them good. But Scott Manley (Vie, Blackbird), the people’s choice, hits the sweet spot with striking plates of pheasant galantine, duck liver mousse, and pork sausage, all of which are lighter than they sound (even when pork fat pretzel rolls are involved). Instead of offering refuge to hikers in the Alps, TDS serves its neighbors belly-warming Armagnac-stoked Manhatterhorns at a farm table in back—and around the fire pit even farther back. That’s refuge, Chicago-style.

Price symbols indicate the typical cost of a meal (without tax, tip, or alcohol) per person. ¢ … under $20 | $ … $20 to $29 | $$ … $30 to $39 | $$$ … $40 to $49 | $$$$ … $50-plus

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