A Toda Madre

Photo: Travas Machel

Fresh, cheap, and endlessly pleasant, A Toda Madre would be your go-to Mexican spot by now if it weren’t a half a tank of gas away in Geneva. The sunny little space’s 12 wood tables groan with shareable plates of grilled pollo adobado, chiles rellenos with huitlacoche and cream, and tamarind-glazed shrimp skewers.

Tequila-sipping customers get crammed even tighter—so tight that the hostess gets an iPad instead of a stand. It’s loud and beautiful chaos, wherein the general goodwill of the staff and diners produces a vibe less claustrophobic than communal. And, of course, steaming-hot churros with cinnamon sugar and passion fruit curd don’t hurt.

Price symbols indicate the typical cost of a meal (without tax, tip, or alcohol) per person. ¢ … under $20 | $ … $20 to $29 | $$ … $30 to $39 | $$$ … $40 to $49 | $$$$ … $50-plus



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