The 2023 relaunch of Bridgeport’s Ramova Grill (inside erstwhile movie house turned music venue Ramova Theatre) meant the return, after 11 years, of a neighborhood institution: the grill’s chili. But as chef and Bridgeport native Kevin Hickey updated the dish, the original was just one touchstone. Equally influential were versions his father had once made as a cook at Lindy’s and other nearby spots. “This isn’t your dad’s chili. It’s my dad’s,” he says of the result, which taps Worcestershire sauce and tomato paste caramelized to a deep brick red for massive savoriness. This recipe practically fills an eight-quart stockpot, making it a good choice for easygoing autumn get-togethers like Bears tailgates. Don’t care to share? Leftovers freeze beautifully.

Ramova Grill’s Chili

Makes:About 7 quarts
Active time:35 minutes
Total time:2 hours 35 minutes

1. Brown the beef: Heat an 8-quart stockpot over medium-high. Add beef and brown, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Drain, leaving about ¼ cup of fat in the pot, and set aside.

2. Cook the onions: Return the pot to medium heat. Add onions and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and tomato paste has turned deep red, about 20 minutes. Stir in red bell pepper and spices and cook briefly to toast, then add garlic and Worcestershire sauce and cook until the raw smell mellows, about 1 minute.

3. Prepare the tomatoes and beans: While onions cook, purée whole peeled tomatoes in a blender. Remove tomatoes from the blender and set aside. Purée beans and 1 cup hot water in the blender until smooth.

4. Simmer the chili: Stir puréed and crushed tomatoes into the stockpot along with beans, 1½ tablespoons salt, pepper, stock, 3 cups hot water, and reserved beef. Cook at a simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom occasionally to prevent burning, until flavors have melded, 1 to 2 hours. Taste, adding more salt if desired, and serve in bowls with cheese, sour cream, and onions for topping.