Texas Tacos at Nicksons Eatery: mini-review

Innocuous, I thought, as I took in the oak tables and brown leather booths at Nicksons Eatery. So the reach of Nick Baca’s regional American menu—East Coast sea scallops, Colorado elk burger—took me by surprise. The crab cakes were much like the room—pleasant but hardly novel. The andouille gumbo, however, put my spice meter on … Read more

Benny’s Chop House: mini-review

In this town, crowd-pleasing Italian fare is a hop, skip, and a jumbo crab cake away from crowd-pleasing steak houses. So it’s no surprise that Ben-ny Siddu (Volare) latched on to beef. Prime aged steaks, seafood, a global wine list, and signature cocktails sound familiar, but Siddu snagged a star-studded team to execute the plan: … Read more

Pork Shoppe: mini-review

Any barbecue joint whose menu boasts “No prefabricated crap” had better bring its A game. On paper, Avondale’s Pork Shoppe has reason to be cocky: Its meat, smoked for hours in a blend of hardwoods, comes from local farms in Forreston, Illinois. The chef, Jason Heiman (Tizi Melloul), developed the menu, which includes “hot-out-the-smoker” pulled … Read more

Dish Flash: Chicago's Priciest Burger?

When you buy a wagyu burger, you enter in a cycle of pampering. The cows legendarily get their massages and beer, and then you indulge yourself by spending a mint to buy the burger. A new menu item at The Bad Apple (4300 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-360-8406) puts that cycle in a whole new gear…

Dish Flash: Come Fly with Them

When Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas, business partners at Alinea (1723 N. Halsted St.; 312-867-0110), drop even a few crumbs of information about their future projects, people become like teenage girls around rock idols. (Case in point: Normally intelligent journalists thought Achatz and Kokonas were opening a bar called Boom.) Well, get ready for unbridled screaming. Achatz and Kokonas plan to open Next, a restaurant with a concept unlike any we’ve heard of before…