Kumiko’s Julia Momosé is a master of thoughtful, impeccably balanced cocktails inspired by her native Japan. Her potato salad calls for the same level of care, from pickling petite cucumbers in shio koji (fermented rice) brine to prepping both mashed and fried spuds. As you roll up your sleeves, know that each component has a role to play, and the end result is truly special. “It’s a play on textures,” Momosé says. “Creamy potatoes, crunchy pickles, roasted ham for savory depth, and crispy fingerlings for an addictive bite.”
Kumiko’s Potato Salad
Makes:4 to 6 servings
Active time:30 minutes
Total time:1 hour 15 minutes, plus 12 hours for pickles
| 1 cup | rice vinegar |
| ¼ cup | liquid shio koji (available at 88 Marketplace) |
| 5 Tbsp. | mirin, divided (available at 88 Marketplace) |
| 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. | salt, divided, plus more for seasoning |
| 2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. | sugar, divided |
| 4 | small Japanese or Persian cucumbers |
| ½ cup | thinly sliced carrots |
| 2 lb. | Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks |
| 1 | 3-inch square kombu (available at 88 Marketplace) |
| ½ cup | Kewpie mayonnaise, at room temperature (available at 88 Marketplace) |
| ½ cup | cubed ham |
| ½ lb. | fingerling potatoes |
| Neutral oil for frying | |
| 2 | scallions, thinly sliced |
1. Make the pickles: Heat rice vinegar, shio koji, 3 tablespoons mirin, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 tablespoons sugar, and ½ cup water in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring until salt and sugar dissolve. Let mixture cool to room temperature. Place whole cucumbers in a container and pour brine on top, ensuring cucumbers are submerged. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, then dice.
2. Prepare the carrots: In a small bowl, combine carrots with 1 teaspoon salt and remaining sugar. Let sit for 30 minutes to draw out moisture, then drain and set aside.
3. Mash the potatoes: Place Yukon Gold potatoes in a large pot. Add kombu and cold water to cover. Heat over high. Just before water begins to boil, discard kombu. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook potatoes until fork-tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, then return them to the pot and mash. Rest potatoes until warm. Stir in remaining mirin, then fold in mayonnaise, adding a splash of ice water if mixture separates.
4. Roast the ham: While potatoes cook, heat the oven to 400 degrees and roast ham until lightly golden and crisp, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
5. Fry the fingerlings: While Yukon Gold potatoes cool, boil fingerlings in salted water until tender, 10 to 12 minutes, then drain. While still warm, tear potatoes into irregular pieces. Meanwhile, heat 2 inches of oil in a deep pot over medium-high. When oil reaches 350 degrees, fry potatoes until golden and crispy, 3 to 5 minutes. Set on a paper-towel-lined baking tray and sprinkle with salt.
6. Assemble the salad: Season mashed potatoes with 1 teaspoon salt, then fold in ½ cup pickles, carrots, ham, and fried potatoes. Top with scallions and serve.